Parque Futangue: Naturaleza desbordante

El bosque lluvioso del Sur de Chile —uno de los sellos formidables de este país— ha demostrado su poder para enfrentar las amenazas y supervivir.

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Aliados fundamentales han sido la acción del Estado y la preocupación de unos pocos ciudadanos. Ubicado en la Región de Los Ríos, recorrimos el Parque Futangue, un parque privado que invita a explorar y disfrutar de la naturaleza prístina de manera excepcional. Por Charlie Donoso.

Vista del Lago RancoHacia 1557 los conquistadores españoles ingresaron a las tierras remotas en torno a los estuarios Ranco y Maihue —a más de 900 kilómetros al sur de Santiago—, hoy territorio norte de la Región de Los Lagos. Entonces la zona estaba habitada por el pueblo huilliche, dedicado al pastoreo, la agricultura y la pesca. Poco tiempo después las fabulosas extensiones boscosas de la zona comenzaron a enfrentar la creciente explotación que demandaba el avance de la economía y la cultura occidentales. Los primeros colonizadores multiplicaron esas áreas para las actividades ganaderas y agrícolas y durante la colonia iniciaron la tala selectiva de árboles como el ciprés de la cordillera (Austrocedrus Chilensis), el roble pellín (Nothofagus Obliqua), el Quillay (Quillaja Saponaria), el canelo (Drimys Winteri), el boldo (Peumus Boldus), la Palma Chilena (Jubaea Chilensis), el coihue (Nothofagus Dombeyi) y el Alerce (Fitzroya Cupressoides).


Más estrés enfrentó el bosque con el ingreso de los colonizadores alemanes, suizos y franceses, quienes arribaron hacia mediados del siglo XIX, que desarrollaron una intensa industria maderera —sobre todo hacia comienzos del siglo XX— y que abarcaron nuevos terrenos para infraestructura (caminos, tren), ciudades y agricultura. Por eso adquieren cada día más valor iniciativas claves que han permitido la preservación y la renovación de estos bosques maravillosos: la protección del Estado a través de la creación del parques y reservas nacionales (como el Parque Nacional Puyehue, de 107 mil hectáreas) y la cultura de conservación que ha permeado a empresarios y magnates, chilenos y extranjeros, en las últimas décadas, a través de la cual han asumido un compromiso personal con el tema. Lo que nació con el retorno de la democracia como una inquietud que mezcló diversas acciones de inversión inmobiliaria y protección de la naturaleza, tuvo un punto de quiebre con la llegada de Douglas Tompkins y su Parque Pumalín, en 1991.

Una extensa red de senderos al mirador más alto del Parque Futangue, permite disfrutar de impresionantes vistas del lago Ranco (arriba), el Cordón del Caulle y diferentes volcanes de la Patagonia norte.

1585 altas cumbres abril 2015-bAIRE LIBRE

El Parque Futangue —que abarca 13 500 hectáreas desde la Selva Valdiviana en las inmediaciones del Lago Ranco hasta los soberbios campos de lava del Cordón del Caulle en los profundos Andes Patagónicos— partió en 1997 también como un proyecto de conservación del bosque nativo, una inquietud del empresario Gabriel Ruiz Tagle.

En poco menos de dos décadas el espacio se ha consolidado como líder en el equipamiento para las actividades y deportes al aire libre y posee la mayor densidad de infraestructura de un parque privado en Chile. Cuenta con una red de senderos de más de 100 km de largo para trekking (resaltan el sendero Las Piedras Quemadas, de 16 kilómetros, que cruza la selva en torno a la laguna Pichi y enfrenta el campo de lava gigante resultado de la erupción del Volcán Caulle en 1922, y la ruta de ascensión al Cerro Mayo, desde cuya cima, la más alta que da hacia la cuenca del Lago Ranco, se puede apreciar la belleza escénica en toda su magnitud), ciclismo, cabalgatas y motoriding. Sus ríos y lagunas son óptimas para la pesca, el kayak y stand up paddle —similar al surf pero con un remo—. Por supuesto también es posible desarrollar la vieja y sana costumbre de caminar por los senderos que cuentan con 3 200 metros de pasarelas, 28 miradores, puentes colgantes, y alcanzar los refugios de montaña.

1440 piedras quemadas agosto-b

Bosque nativo con sendero de pendiente pronunciada que se elevan a más de 1 000 metros de altura y campos de lava originados producto de una gigantesca erupción volcánica en el Cordón del Caulle, el año 1922, son algunos de los paseos obligado para los viajeros más avezados.

El área fue traspasada a la Fundación Ranco en 2006, la que junto a las iniciativas de conservación y ecosustentabilidad —por ejemplo, en ella operan nueve inspectores de pesca, el número más grande por río en la región—, promueve actividades educativas, ambientales y deportivas. Además, es una activa promotora de la conciencia ecológica en la comunidad aledaña a través de una política de puertas abiertas y la organización de actividades como talleres, charlas y espacio para investigación académica, explica Rodrigo Becerra, encargado de Operaciones y Logística del Parque Futangue.



Futangue está bajo el cielo más lluvioso de Chile continental: sobre 4 500 milímetros anuales. Esto porque la cuenca del Riñinahue (que atraviesa las comunas de La Unión, Futrono, Lago Ranco y Río Bueno) recibe todas las precipitaciones que se abren paso desde el mar y además las que se generan como condensación de la humedad sobre el lago Ranco. Por eso el agua reina en todas partes: en el aire y en cascadas, riachuelos, lagunas, fuentes termales y esteros. Y habitualmente acompaña a sus visitantes, como los cientos que cada febrero compiten a campo abierto en el Futangue Challengue, en las rutas de 10, 18, 30 y 60 kilómetros, certificados por la International Trail Running Association. , el gato montés, güiña, la ranita de Darwin, el zorro chilla, pumas, chucaos, el hued-hued, pitíos, las golondrinas, torcazas y choroyes, la perdiz y el carpintero negro, el ciervo volante, el coleóptero de la luna, la madre de la culebra y el caballo del diablo, entre muchas otras especies.



Uno puede ingresar al Parque Futangue por Riñinahue, en el sector de Trahuilco, y recibir allí toda la información necesaria para planificar aventuras inolvidables. En un amplio y luminoso local se puede acceder también a artesanía local, comprar cerveza artesanal y miel. Cerca de allí, está finalizando la completa modernización de un amplio centro de eventos, que la administración planea posicionar como sede no solo de actividades sociales (como matrimonios y ceremonias), sino como espacio para el arte y el intercambio cultural con otras comunidades, donde la gastronomía y las tradiciones jueguen un rol central. Y en el verano de 2017 se abrirá un hotel para los pasajeros más exigentes.

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Periodista de la Universidad de Chile, egresado del magíster de Comunicación Empresarial de la Universidad Diego Portales (UDP).

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